Out of the hotel and into the street: this was known then as Green Square, though I am told it is now Martyr's Square, though what the people of Tripoli call it I don't know. The evenings in Green Square then – maybe this was a weekend event – were full of people who set up little stands where you could be photographed with a gazelle, which seemed tame and which were leashed. Why did you do this? We did not know. Guidebooks said nothing about this. We must have asked a guide, though most of the guides were very poor at contextualizing things: to them, presumably, going to Green Square and getting your picture taken with a gazelle was a very obvious thing to do.